In a world brimming with beautiful mountain ranges, there are few places you can go for a hike on the Earth’s actual mantle. This isn’t a trek through lush forests or up a granite peak; this is a journey to the planet’s very core, exposed for all to see. Welcome to the Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the west coast of Newfoundland and Labrador. This is a landscape so otherworldly, so starkly beautiful, it feels more like walking on Mars than on a Canadian island.
Gros Morne is a park of dramatic contrasts, where sheer-walled freshwater fjords slice through ancient mountains and vibrant green forests give way to barren, rust-coloured rock. It’s a geological wonderland, a place where the planet’s most profound secrets are not buried deep underground, but are lying right at your feet, waiting to be discovered.
A Hike Through Deep Earth
The star of this geological spectacle is, without a doubt, the Tablelands. Driving towards them is an experience in itself. The typical Newfoundland landscape of tuckamore and spruce abruptly stops, and a massive, flat-topped mountain of orange-brown rock rises before you. It’s a startling transition, a clear sign that you are entering a place governed by different rules.
So, what exactly are you looking at? The Tablelands are a massive slab of peridotite rock, which originates in the Earth’s mantle—the layer just beneath the crust. Millions of years ago, the collision of two ancient continents forced this piece of the mantle up and over the continental crust. This process, a key piece of evidence for the theory of plate tectonics, is laid bare in Gros Morne unlike almost anywhere else on Earth.
Hiking the Tablelands Trail, a 4-kilometre return trek, is a must-do. The ground beneath your feet is gravelly and stark. The rock is so rich in heavy metals and low in essential nutrients that very few plants can survive. You’ll find a few hardy, specialized species, like the insect-eating pitcher plant, Newfoundland’s provincial flower, but the overall effect is one of eerie desolation. It’s this very barrenness that makes it so profound; you are walking on a surface that was never meant to see the sun. The panoramic views from the top of the trail, looking out over the winding valley and the stark, ochre slopes, are simply breathtaking.
The Lush Contrast: Western Brook Pond
The true genius of Gros Morne National Park lies in its incredible diversity. After the alien experience of the Tablelands, a visit to Western Brook Pond feels like stepping into another dimension entirely. This is not a “pond” in the traditional sense, but a massive, landlocked freshwater fjord carved by glaciers millions of years ago.
Reaching it requires a gentle 3-kilometre walk across a coastal plain, but the reward is one of the most iconic views in all of Canada. Sheer cliffs, draped with hanging valleys and cascading waterfalls like Pissing Mare Falls, rise over 600 metres from the water’s surface. Taking a boat tour here is essential. As you glide through the deep, cool water, you’ll be dwarfed by the immense scale of the cliffs, feeling a sense of awe that is both powerful and humbling. The contrast between the stark, barren mantle of the Tablelands and the lush, life-filled fjord of Western Brook Pond is a stunning illustration of the geological forces that have shaped this incredible corner of Newfoundland and Labrador.
A Journey for the Curious Traveller
A trip to Gros Morne is more than just a hiking holiday; it’s a journey back in time and a deep dive into the forces that shape our world. It appeals to the adventurous hiker, the curious traveller, and the science enthusiast alike. It’s a place that sparks your curiosity, fills you with wonder, and leaves you with a profound appreciation for the immense and beautiful story of our planet. Standing on the Earth’s mantle, you don’t just see the landscape; you feel its ancient, powerful history. And that is a travel experience that will stay with you forever.